Shiseido's Approach to Sunscreen Innovation through Bacterial Utilization for Future Resilience
Shiseido's Approach to Sunscreen Innovation through Bacterial Utilization for Future Resilience
Shiseido is aiming to safeguard its suncare line by utilizing molecules derived from bacteria's cell membranes to block harmful sun rays. This innovation is being spearheaded at the Shiseido European Innovation Center (EIC) in France, which also heads the EMEA branch of Shiseido's Fibona Open Innovation Program.
As a testament to its commitment to sustainability, the EIC hosts an annual competition for eco-friendly start-ups each year. This year's focus was on sustainable suncare, specifically exploring advances in UV filters and novel ingredients. The contest was eventually won by groundbreaking biotech startup Bacfarm. Bacfarm will work alongside pioneering Shiseido brand Gallinée skincare to conceptualize sun protection using bacteria-derived molecules.
Dr. Marie Drago, Gallinée's Chief Creative Officer, expressed the panel's admiration for Bacfarm's innovative approach to harnessing nature's inherent abilities. "They're utilizing nature to perform tasks it already handles," she said, emphasizing its "green technology" aspect. Drago explained that no external fertilizers are needed to cultivate these molecules in a lab setting, rendering it a unique and unparalleled sun protection method.
She also highlighted bacteria's capacity to withstand radiation in space, suggesting that its potential to filter out harmful rays is a promising development.
According to research conducted by Fortune Business Insights & WGSN, the global sun care market has expanded by 7.9 billion USD dollar, while Mintel reported an increased demand for products that not only deliver high performance but also prioritize environmental responsibility.
During previous editions in Japan, Korea, and China, Shiseido launched the Fibona EMEA Open Innovation Program in 2019, which eventually debuted its startup competition in 2023. The competition, focused on transparency and traceability, was shared between blockchain companies Arianee and Provenance.
Christophe Hadjur, Vice President of EIC & Sustainability EMEA, pointed out Shiseido's belief in fostering innovation through collaboration, internally and externally. "At Shiseido, we prioritize cross-pollination of expertise between our internal R&D and external knowledge," he said.
This dedication to collaboration led Shiseido to acquire microbiome-based skincare startup Gallinée two years ago, marking its entry into a new market segment. Since then, Gallinée has introduced 23 products across skincare, body care, scalp care, and oral hygiene.
On a different note, Shiseido also developed French beauty startup Ule from the ground up in the same year, incorporating plant-based ingredients harvested through indoor vertical farming and devoid of pesticides.
Another Shiseido initiative, in the domain of neuroscience, has been in development for the past five years. This project aims to leverage the transfer of emotions, capitalizing on the notion that emotions can be conveyed through natural body odor. The ultimate goal is to create products that boost positive emotions, potentially becoming available by 2025-2026.
Beauty brands worldwide are increasingly adopting neuroscience to promote wellness. Neurae, the latest skincare brand from the Sisley stable, is based on the connection between skin and emotions, aiming to counteract negative emotions and their impact on the skin.
- Recognizing the growth in the suncare market, Shiseido saw an opportunity to integrate sustainable sunscreen solutions into their luxury beauty offerings, aligning with the global trend towards eco-friendly products.
- The highlight of the recent annual sustainable beauty competition at Shiseido's EIC was the category on sustainable suncare, where Bacfarm, a biotech startup, won with their innovative bacteria-derived sunscreen molecules.
- As the suncare market continues to expand, with a reported 7.9 billion USD increase, Shiseido's strategic investment in sustainable sunscreen technologies, like those developed by Bacfarm, could potentially set them apart in the luxury beauty sector, emphasizing their commitment to both performance and environmental responsibility.